Longhaven Bouldering Topo – New bouldering on the Aberdeen Coast

Climbers on the chopping block boulder

Longhaven is an odd section of the coastline. It has an industrial past and different feeling to most of the adjoining landscape. It’s been created by large scale quarrying and evidence has been left scattered and rotting amongst the place. However it still has it’s charm with the yellow lichen slabs and array of excellent rock architecture.

During summer 2020 while traversing Scimitar Ridge and Horseback Ridge, Beth and I came across these boulders and short walls. Deciding they looked worth while we came back armed with pads and brushes. Bore hole wall was first on the hit list providing techy vert climbing and laybacks, with an interesting via ferrata-esk approach. Catching the Tube f6A and End of the Line f6B are two highlights worth seeking out.

Liam on End of the Line Variation f6B on Bore Hole Wall

The chopping block boulder has a dominating stance watching over the quarries below. Sitting on Horseback Ridge just before it meets the main Scimitar Ridge. It has good problems across a grade range from f4 to f7A+ with Subtle Knife and Battleaxe standing out from the others.

Liam on Hatchet F7A+ on the chopping block

Through the quarries are other scattered boulders and wall which are worth seeking out. Landings have been built but some could still do with improving. There is a plenty full supply of rocks around to help with this. All problems were also cleaned at the first ascents but may need more brushing, it only takes a moment with a wire brush!

A full topo can be downloaded below and also at Scottishbloc.com