A much needed lower grade sport climbing venue at Newtonhill, Aberdeen. Yellow Crag was bolted during the Winter 2021/22 by locals Tim Rankin, Neil Morrison and Neil Shepherd. This has produced an excellent crag of lower grade sport climbs, with a good collection in the 4 – 6c range. It is proving very popular with locals due to a sunny aspect, drying fast and a very pleasant environment. Climbing here is possible in the middle of winter on a sunny day!
A few points worth noting, especially for any beginners heading out, that are also mentioned in the Topo.
- If you are bottom roping at the crag, please use your own equipment on the anchors to save the anchors wearing out, with the last person to bottom rope stripping the gear out and lowering off the in-situ anchor.
- These routes are quiet long, and its possible your rope isn’t long enough. Close the system and tie a knot in the end. The longest route is 27m, a 50m rope will probably be ok on rope stretch AND with a switched on belayer being careful – but you could easily be lowered off the end of a rope in these scenarios without a knot in the end!
- The crag is newly bolted, and has in a short period of time cleaned up very well with traffic. That being said, there’s still the odd hold breaking – wear a helmet.
- The crux for some routes is not far above a ledge, here you will find the bolts are closer together – but an attentive belayer is must.
- It’s almost non-tidal, but a big swell or spring tide could prevent access to routes at the far right (seaward end) of the crag.
- It takes a lot of effort to clean and bolts venues like this. The longer routes are over £100 each. If you climb sport on the coast often consider donating to the local bolt fund which helps to pay for the bolts, drills and drill bits. Details can be found on the topo.
If any of the above doesn’t make sense to you, go with someone with more experience or get some lessons. Cove Climbing would be more than happy to introduce you to sport climbing and the skills set required to stay safe.
The crag is not in any guidebooks yet so download the topo by Tim and Neil below.
